Oltrarno in Florence

The district called ‘Oltrarno’ in Florence means ‘across the Arno’, and living on the south bank of the river was once considered inferior. Here lived people who did not have sufficient wealth to build a palace within the centre of Florence. That stigma did not change until the house-hold of the Medici Grand Dukes moved to Oltrarno in 1550. The Palazzo Pitti became the base from which Tuscany was ruled for the next 300 years. Eleonora di Toledo, the Spanish wife of Cosimo I, purchased the Palazzo Pitti in 1549. Suffering from a wasting disease, perhaps malaria or tuberculosis, Eleonora persuaded Cosimo that her health might well improve if they lived in the relatively rural setting of Oltrarno.

Over the years the Palazzo Pitti increased almost threefold in size in comparison with the original plans, and the Boboli Gardens were laid out on the land around it. A few Florentine aristocrats followed the Medici lead and moved across the river to make their homes here. In the late 16th and 17th centuries, many palaces were built in the area surrounding Via Maggio and Piazza Santo Spirito. Today , this is primarily a quiet area full of artisan workshop and antique shops, contrasting with the elegant palaces and the unfinished austere facade of Santo Spirito. Many Florence hotels are located in Oltrarno, the local merchant’s association organizes guided tours, events and fairs to expose visitors to the artisan treasures on the south bank. It is a fascinating area to wander around and discover the true character of Florence